Development and/or Rights?

Cambodia’s economy is booming. But is that growth despite its authoritarian political situation, or because of it? Will rising standards of living lead to political freedoms, or is it the other way around? A recent NYTimes op-ed forum asks how the US should treat emerging economies with authoritarian leaders and poor human rights records. The countries in question here are Rwanda and Ethiopia, but Cambodia would be equally relevant, especially given President Obama’s highly publicized (at least in Cambodia) recent trip to the country for the ASEAN summit, as well as the American foreign policy ‘pivot’ towards Asia.

Human rights advocates have suggested making future aid to Cambodia conditional on political reform, while others have pushed to end aid money completely. But implementing either idea opens the door even wider for China, which has no scruples about human rights. And there are some that praise the Chinese model, which prioritizes infrastructure improvements and business investment, claiming that economic development will inevitably lead to greater transparency and a more empowered citizenry.  After twenty-some years of aid with limited success, it is certainly time to consider other options. But given the land-grabbing controversies and the entrenched power of the well-connected here, I wonder who stands to gain from ‘business investment’ in Cambodia. Anyone who has spent time on Cambodia’s roadways has seen the trucks full of young women being driven to and from ominous looking garment factories at odd hours. Meanwhile, mansions in Phnom Penh get bigger and more elaborate with each passing day. 

And finally there are those that claim that Cambodia's 'growth' is an illusion: the rich are getting richer, foreign investors are making profits, but the general population is barely better off than it was during the UNTAC period. Another 'Room for Debate' discusses the recent conflict in the Congo, but I couldn't help but to think of Cambodia when one of the writers described land grabbing and opaque distribution of resource wealth as a key impediment to progress.

Angkor Photo Diary #5

Interior, Banteay Samre, Angkor Archeological Park

Angkor Diary #2: Banteay Srei

Banteay Srei, Angkor Archeological Park

For my second time to Angkor, I was most excited for Bantey Srei, miniature (by Angkorian standards) temple of red sandstone, renown for its carvings. And while the carvings were indeed spectacular, and I was very impressed by the new visitors center and surrounding 'botanical garden walk,' I had the unfortunate experience here that every visitor to Angkor encounters at least once: tourist mayhem.

 Despite being a located a good 15 minute drive from the rest of the temples, a new road (and the aforementioned visitor center) mean that it has been firmly entrenched in the tour group circuit. I knew I was in for trouble before I stepped foot into the temple grounds, as there was 4 giant tour buses parked before the entrance. As I had come all the way out just to see Banteay Srei, I had no choice but to proceed. As I mentioned in my post about Preah Khan, as a tourist, I don't have much right to complain about other tourists. Furthermore, I take issue with the hardcore backpackers and long-term expats who constantly bemoan how Cambodia has been 'gentrified' and the temples aren't 'mysterious' like they once were, when there was still moonlight raves and landmines. The temples are a part of human heritage, and the fact that people even want to visit to me is a good sign.

However, its hard to imagine that the 'tour bus' method of visiting the temples is particularly fun.  For little Banteay Srei in particular, the crowds of people overwhelmed the entire temple. The tourists that take this route often seem more concerned with taking funny pictures with (bare breasted) apsara carvings or future Facebook profile shots. What's the point of having a camera worth three grand if you're only taking snapshots of your girlfriend posing? At the very least, traveling in rowdy packs makes it difficult to spend quality time with one temple or even concentrate on a particular carving. Perhaps this is just the way our iPhone-addled generation is headed, not unique to tour groups. At one point people literally pushed me from looking at the carvings so they could take a picture. Luckily, the temple's conservators had the good idea of roping off the interior buildings.

The Cambodian government has been making excited statements recently about the increase in the number of visitors to Cambodia, somewhere near 25% more since last year alone. Siem Reap is constructing mammoth hotels at breakneck pace. Clearly there is no stopping the tourist invasion (there is a lot of money to be made). Hopefully, though, the conservators and art historians who care about the temples will be given equal voice to the govt. officials and businessmen who push for ever greater numbers (of tourists, hotels, cars, water, power, bars). Otherwise, the temples could face the same fate that has befallen many of Cambodia's other precious 'resources.' 

Angkor Photo Diary #4

Bantey Samre Interior, Angkor Archeological Park

Final farwell to King Sihanouk

Monks at the 7th say of mourning for King Sihanouk, source unknown

Its hard to really compare anything in the US to Cambodia and it's king. Today* I am giddy with the news the Barack Obama will serve a second term as president, but in a few weeks time, that sheen will wear off and it will be politics as usual in the US, and decades later historians will look back on the Obama presidency and grade his various achievements and failures with an objective view (or at least strive to). I do not view Obama as my spiritual leader, and once he is gone from office I doubt he will command much clout beside of the memoir-tour variety.

This was obviously not the case with King Norodom Sihanouk. While he held a number of political offices during his reign, he was always held in esteem by the Khmer people both as a figurehead, an advocate, and a divine presence. This was made apparent to me when I joined my friends when his body returned from Beijing, but nothing could truly prepare me for the outpouring of emotion that I witnessed on the 7th day of mourning, marking the end of the official week of grieving, if not the end for the  Khmer people (there are still mourners at the palace as I write.)

To be honest, I don't really know what the ceremony was all about besides a final, public send off for the King (that is, until his public cremation, for which they are building the pyre in front of the National Museum). But as for the order of the events, the different prayers, and the true meaning of the King's passing for the Khmer people, I'm not the person to ask. I can tell you that it was a remarkably moving and beautiful ceremony and I feel extremely lucky to have been invited by my CEDAC colleagues. In many ways it reminded me why I wanted to return to Cambodia in the first place, and what makes this country such a special place.

Instead of trying to offer a 'recap' I will offer some snap shots of the overwhelming visual, auditory, olfactory and emotional experience:

• Huge sand filled goblets servings as incense pyres flinging steady plumes of thick white smoke into the air, from which many people saw an image of the King's face just after sunset. (For the record, I am typically skeptical on these matters, but the cloud did in fact look remarkably like a face). After the sun set, the smoke starting drifting into the crowd, lending an almost expressionistic haze punctuated by faces illuminated by candles. 

Sinanouk's 'face' seen in the clouds, via KPR

• Heavy grey storm clouds approaching from the west and northeast, bringing brilliant streaks of lightening. As the sun set, coating the palace environs in Starburst worthy hues of orange, magenta, and finally faint purple, they formed almost a perfect circle over the mourners and the palace (which could have something to do with the fact that the palace is situated facing where the two arms of the Mekong, the Tonle Sap and the Bassac rivers meet [the '4 arms]). Almost immediately after the ceremony, a huge downpour soaked all the mourners stuck in traffic.  

• The current King and Queen Mother making an unannounced appearance to greet their (awestruck) people and preside over the service.

• Several thousand monks in saffron robes seated in the center facing the palace gate. Following the ceremony, they walked back to Wat Ounalom through a pathway formed by people kneeling in prayer. 

• Beautiful, uniquely Khmer, traditional mourning songs preceding 20 minutes of silent meditation. Many people in the crowd cried softly.

• While much of Cambodia and particularly Phnom Penh could be considered 'organized chaos', I was impressed by the respect that mourners showed to each other, with groups giving free water and snacks, and others giving up their seats for the elderly. During the 20 minutes of silent meditation, there wasn't a single camera flash or ringtone.

• The Royal Palace itself, rising tall above portraits, incense, and pyramids of lotus bouquets. Throughout the service, it was illuminated by spotlights and white trim lights. Earlier in the evening, it appeared golden and glittering under the rays of the setting sun, until finally turning a brilliant, almost pastel yellow in the dark.

*This all happened in mid-October. I've been busy at work and had a hard time finding the best way to write about this. 

Angkor Photo Diary #3

View of central tower, Angkor Wat

Angkor Photo Diary #2

Interior gallery, Angkor Wat

Angkor Photo Diary #1

Sun setting on courtyard, from Angkor Wat

Angkor Diaries #1

My tour guide, Preah Khan, Angkor

 For my second time at Angkor, I decided to go alone. This turned out to be a good move, since I could explore the temples I wanted to see at my own pace and take the time to wander the outer grounds and even do some hilariously awful sketches. I tried to revisit some of my favorite spots and check out some others I'd missed before. Of the latter, my favorite is Preah Khan. From wikipedia:

[Preah Khan] was the centre of a substantial organisation, with almost 100,000 officials and servants. The temple is flat in design, with a basic plan of successive rectangular galleries around a Buddhist sanctuary complicated by Hindu satellite temples and numerous later additions. Like the nearby Ta Prohm, Preah Khan has been left largely unrestored, with numerous trees and other vegetation growing among the ruins. [During the Khmer empire, in addition to Buddha] 430 other deities also had shrines on the site, each of which received an allotment of food, clothing, perfume and even mosquito nets;[3] the temple's wealth included gold, silver, gems, 112,300 pearls and a cow with gilded horns.[4] The institution combined the roles of city, temple and Buddhist university: there were 97,840 attendants and servants, including 1000 dancers[5] and 1000 teachers.

Wall, from Preah Khan interior, Angkor

Despite its proximity to Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat, and its alluring 'lost in time' atmosphere, I was nearly alone for much of my time within the grounds (anyone planning to visit Angkor should explore at least one of the less popular sites, which can require a bit of wrangling with your driver or guide, since most people only want to do the traditional 'big' or 'small' loops.)

As much as I've accepted the flocks of tourists at Angkor (after all, I'm one of them) as part of the experience, when you're alone in the forest near the temple's outer walls looking in, it really does look like all those cheesy paintings you can buy in Phnom Penh: jade green canopy, perfectly still reflection pools, smiling stone faces peaking out of temple windows and piles of monumental bricks with the faintest traces of carvings still visible. And of course the odd cow or two.

Wall, from Preah Khan interior, Angkor

Unfortunately, my first reaction upon seeing the immense silk-cotton trees and lush surroundings was to think how most of Cambodia used to look this way, and what a pity... But I fought back that knee-jerk negativity. Being an expat in Cambodia means confronting the legacy of the many horrors this country and its people have endured, especially if you work in development. Constantly bemoaning the state of this and that is not helpful or particularly healthy.

Instead, I tried to remind myself what a miracle it is that Angkor complex and its forest has survived a nearly 1000 years of tumultuous history, and how lucky I am to have the opportunity to see such a spectacularly beautiful place. In my eyes, the temples are monuments to both human achievement and the beauty of nature, and I hope they never cease to awe and inspire me.