Angkor Diary #2: Banteay Srei

Banteay Srei, Angkor Archeological Park

For my second time to Angkor, I was most excited for Bantey Srei, miniature (by Angkorian standards) temple of red sandstone, renown for its carvings. And while the carvings were indeed spectacular, and I was very impressed by the new visitors center and surrounding 'botanical garden walk,' I had the unfortunate experience here that every visitor to Angkor encounters at least once: tourist mayhem.

 Despite being a located a good 15 minute drive from the rest of the temples, a new road (and the aforementioned visitor center) mean that it has been firmly entrenched in the tour group circuit. I knew I was in for trouble before I stepped foot into the temple grounds, as there was 4 giant tour buses parked before the entrance. As I had come all the way out just to see Banteay Srei, I had no choice but to proceed. As I mentioned in my post about Preah Khan, as a tourist, I don't have much right to complain about other tourists. Furthermore, I take issue with the hardcore backpackers and long-term expats who constantly bemoan how Cambodia has been 'gentrified' and the temples aren't 'mysterious' like they once were, when there was still moonlight raves and landmines. The temples are a part of human heritage, and the fact that people even want to visit to me is a good sign.

However, its hard to imagine that the 'tour bus' method of visiting the temples is particularly fun.  For little Banteay Srei in particular, the crowds of people overwhelmed the entire temple. The tourists that take this route often seem more concerned with taking funny pictures with (bare breasted) apsara carvings or future Facebook profile shots. What's the point of having a camera worth three grand if you're only taking snapshots of your girlfriend posing? At the very least, traveling in rowdy packs makes it difficult to spend quality time with one temple or even concentrate on a particular carving. Perhaps this is just the way our iPhone-addled generation is headed, not unique to tour groups. At one point people literally pushed me from looking at the carvings so they could take a picture. Luckily, the temple's conservators had the good idea of roping off the interior buildings.

The Cambodian government has been making excited statements recently about the increase in the number of visitors to Cambodia, somewhere near 25% more since last year alone. Siem Reap is constructing mammoth hotels at breakneck pace. Clearly there is no stopping the tourist invasion (there is a lot of money to be made). Hopefully, though, the conservators and art historians who care about the temples will be given equal voice to the govt. officials and businessmen who push for ever greater numbers (of tourists, hotels, cars, water, power, bars). Otherwise, the temples could face the same fate that has befallen many of Cambodia's other precious 'resources.'