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Mr. Sal Hueng, of the
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Kachok ethnic minority group, weaving a traditional carrying basket
Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri, Cambodia's remote northeast provinces, are home to a 'mosaic' of indigenous peoples, as the guide books put it. I'm always confused as to how ethnicity is defined in Cambodia. I know Cambodians that claim to be 100% Chinese but whose parents and grandparents were all born here, who claim that 'Khmer' only means dark skinned people from the countryside... only to have others tell me that the dark skinned people in the countryside in Siem Reap are minority groups. However, there are clearly different traditions, languages and religions in the northeast, areas which have only recently been opened up to the rest of the country.
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| Mr. Hueng's home garden |
These groups clearly face serious development challenges, and suffer from greater poverty than the rest of the country. The new roads into these provinces are a good step in the right direction in ending their isolation. However, with roads brings migrants attracted to the cheap land, and entices locals to leave their homeland in search of work in other provinces. It's also apparent that the new roads have also facilitated significant deforestation, which I discussed earlier. People who lack technical knowledge of agriculture even when compared to their poor peers in the lowlands must now learn to farm more intensively, as foraging in the forest is no longer an option for many.
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| Mr. Hueng reviewing his crops and smoking a hand rolled cigarette |
These populations have historically suffered from discrimination (as in, recorded by Chinese emissaries who visited the ancient Khmer empire nearly a millennium ago). I wouldn't be surprised if that discrimination is continuing, especially considering their strong accents in Khmer and the widespread preference for white skin and soft features. CEDAC, among other local and international NGOs, is working with the indigenous people in both provinces to improve their livelihoods and to gain a more prominent voice in public affairs.
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