Development and/or Rights?

Cambodia’s economy is booming. But is that growth despite its authoritarian political situation, or because of it? Will rising standards of living lead to political freedoms, or is it the other way around? A recent NYTimes op-ed forum asks how the US should treat emerging economies with authoritarian leaders and poor human rights records. The countries in question here are Rwanda and Ethiopia, but Cambodia would be equally relevant, especially given President Obama’s highly publicized (at least in Cambodia) recent trip to the country for the ASEAN summit, as well as the American foreign policy ‘pivot’ towards Asia.

Human rights advocates have suggested making future aid to Cambodia conditional on political reform, while others have pushed to end aid money completely. But implementing either idea opens the door even wider for China, which has no scruples about human rights. And there are some that praise the Chinese model, which prioritizes infrastructure improvements and business investment, claiming that economic development will inevitably lead to greater transparency and a more empowered citizenry.  After twenty-some years of aid with limited success, it is certainly time to consider other options. But given the land-grabbing controversies and the entrenched power of the well-connected here, I wonder who stands to gain from ‘business investment’ in Cambodia. Anyone who has spent time on Cambodia’s roadways has seen the trucks full of young women being driven to and from ominous looking garment factories at odd hours. Meanwhile, mansions in Phnom Penh get bigger and more elaborate with each passing day. 

And finally there are those that claim that Cambodia's 'growth' is an illusion: the rich are getting richer, foreign investors are making profits, but the general population is barely better off than it was during the UNTAC period. Another 'Room for Debate' discusses the recent conflict in the Congo, but I couldn't help but to think of Cambodia when one of the writers described land grabbing and opaque distribution of resource wealth as a key impediment to progress.

Angkor Photo Diary #5

Interior, Banteay Samre, Angkor Archeological Park

Angkor Diary #2: Banteay Srei

Banteay Srei, Angkor Archeological Park

For my second time to Angkor, I was most excited for Bantey Srei, miniature (by Angkorian standards) temple of red sandstone, renown for its carvings. And while the carvings were indeed spectacular, and I was very impressed by the new visitors center and surrounding 'botanical garden walk,' I had the unfortunate experience here that every visitor to Angkor encounters at least once: tourist mayhem.

 Despite being a located a good 15 minute drive from the rest of the temples, a new road (and the aforementioned visitor center) mean that it has been firmly entrenched in the tour group circuit. I knew I was in for trouble before I stepped foot into the temple grounds, as there was 4 giant tour buses parked before the entrance. As I had come all the way out just to see Banteay Srei, I had no choice but to proceed. As I mentioned in my post about Preah Khan, as a tourist, I don't have much right to complain about other tourists. Furthermore, I take issue with the hardcore backpackers and long-term expats who constantly bemoan how Cambodia has been 'gentrified' and the temples aren't 'mysterious' like they once were, when there was still moonlight raves and landmines. The temples are a part of human heritage, and the fact that people even want to visit to me is a good sign.

However, its hard to imagine that the 'tour bus' method of visiting the temples is particularly fun.  For little Banteay Srei in particular, the crowds of people overwhelmed the entire temple. The tourists that take this route often seem more concerned with taking funny pictures with (bare breasted) apsara carvings or future Facebook profile shots. What's the point of having a camera worth three grand if you're only taking snapshots of your girlfriend posing? At the very least, traveling in rowdy packs makes it difficult to spend quality time with one temple or even concentrate on a particular carving. Perhaps this is just the way our iPhone-addled generation is headed, not unique to tour groups. At one point people literally pushed me from looking at the carvings so they could take a picture. Luckily, the temple's conservators had the good idea of roping off the interior buildings.

The Cambodian government has been making excited statements recently about the increase in the number of visitors to Cambodia, somewhere near 25% more since last year alone. Siem Reap is constructing mammoth hotels at breakneck pace. Clearly there is no stopping the tourist invasion (there is a lot of money to be made). Hopefully, though, the conservators and art historians who care about the temples will be given equal voice to the govt. officials and businessmen who push for ever greater numbers (of tourists, hotels, cars, water, power, bars). Otherwise, the temples could face the same fate that has befallen many of Cambodia's other precious 'resources.' 

Angkor Photo Diary #4

Bantey Samre Interior, Angkor Archeological Park

Final farwell to King Sihanouk

Monks at the 7th say of mourning for King Sihanouk, source unknown

Its hard to really compare anything in the US to Cambodia and it's king. Today* I am giddy with the news the Barack Obama will serve a second term as president, but in a few weeks time, that sheen will wear off and it will be politics as usual in the US, and decades later historians will look back on the Obama presidency and grade his various achievements and failures with an objective view (or at least strive to). I do not view Obama as my spiritual leader, and once he is gone from office I doubt he will command much clout beside of the memoir-tour variety.

This was obviously not the case with King Norodom Sihanouk. While he held a number of political offices during his reign, he was always held in esteem by the Khmer people both as a figurehead, an advocate, and a divine presence. This was made apparent to me when I joined my friends when his body returned from Beijing, but nothing could truly prepare me for the outpouring of emotion that I witnessed on the 7th day of mourning, marking the end of the official week of grieving, if not the end for the  Khmer people (there are still mourners at the palace as I write.)

To be honest, I don't really know what the ceremony was all about besides a final, public send off for the King (that is, until his public cremation, for which they are building the pyre in front of the National Museum). But as for the order of the events, the different prayers, and the true meaning of the King's passing for the Khmer people, I'm not the person to ask. I can tell you that it was a remarkably moving and beautiful ceremony and I feel extremely lucky to have been invited by my CEDAC colleagues. In many ways it reminded me why I wanted to return to Cambodia in the first place, and what makes this country such a special place.

Instead of trying to offer a 'recap' I will offer some snap shots of the overwhelming visual, auditory, olfactory and emotional experience:

• Huge sand filled goblets servings as incense pyres flinging steady plumes of thick white smoke into the air, from which many people saw an image of the King's face just after sunset. (For the record, I am typically skeptical on these matters, but the cloud did in fact look remarkably like a face). After the sun set, the smoke starting drifting into the crowd, lending an almost expressionistic haze punctuated by faces illuminated by candles. 

Sinanouk's 'face' seen in the clouds, via KPR

• Heavy grey storm clouds approaching from the west and northeast, bringing brilliant streaks of lightening. As the sun set, coating the palace environs in Starburst worthy hues of orange, magenta, and finally faint purple, they formed almost a perfect circle over the mourners and the palace (which could have something to do with the fact that the palace is situated facing where the two arms of the Mekong, the Tonle Sap and the Bassac rivers meet [the '4 arms]). Almost immediately after the ceremony, a huge downpour soaked all the mourners stuck in traffic.  

• The current King and Queen Mother making an unannounced appearance to greet their (awestruck) people and preside over the service.

• Several thousand monks in saffron robes seated in the center facing the palace gate. Following the ceremony, they walked back to Wat Ounalom through a pathway formed by people kneeling in prayer. 

• Beautiful, uniquely Khmer, traditional mourning songs preceding 20 minutes of silent meditation. Many people in the crowd cried softly.

• While much of Cambodia and particularly Phnom Penh could be considered 'organized chaos', I was impressed by the respect that mourners showed to each other, with groups giving free water and snacks, and others giving up their seats for the elderly. During the 20 minutes of silent meditation, there wasn't a single camera flash or ringtone.

• The Royal Palace itself, rising tall above portraits, incense, and pyramids of lotus bouquets. Throughout the service, it was illuminated by spotlights and white trim lights. Earlier in the evening, it appeared golden and glittering under the rays of the setting sun, until finally turning a brilliant, almost pastel yellow in the dark.

*This all happened in mid-October. I've been busy at work and had a hard time finding the best way to write about this. 

Angkor Photo Diary #3

View of central tower, Angkor Wat

Angkor Photo Diary #2

Interior gallery, Angkor Wat

Angkor Photo Diary #1

Sun setting on courtyard, from Angkor Wat

Angkor Diaries #1

My tour guide, Preah Khan, Angkor

 For my second time at Angkor, I decided to go alone. This turned out to be a good move, since I could explore the temples I wanted to see at my own pace and take the time to wander the outer grounds and even do some hilariously awful sketches. I tried to revisit some of my favorite spots and check out some others I'd missed before. Of the latter, my favorite is Preah Khan. From wikipedia:

[Preah Khan] was the centre of a substantial organisation, with almost 100,000 officials and servants. The temple is flat in design, with a basic plan of successive rectangular galleries around a Buddhist sanctuary complicated by Hindu satellite temples and numerous later additions. Like the nearby Ta Prohm, Preah Khan has been left largely unrestored, with numerous trees and other vegetation growing among the ruins. [During the Khmer empire, in addition to Buddha] 430 other deities also had shrines on the site, each of which received an allotment of food, clothing, perfume and even mosquito nets;[3] the temple's wealth included gold, silver, gems, 112,300 pearls and a cow with gilded horns.[4] The institution combined the roles of city, temple and Buddhist university: there were 97,840 attendants and servants, including 1000 dancers[5] and 1000 teachers.

Wall, from Preah Khan interior, Angkor

Despite its proximity to Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat, and its alluring 'lost in time' atmosphere, I was nearly alone for much of my time within the grounds (anyone planning to visit Angkor should explore at least one of the less popular sites, which can require a bit of wrangling with your driver or guide, since most people only want to do the traditional 'big' or 'small' loops.)

As much as I've accepted the flocks of tourists at Angkor (after all, I'm one of them) as part of the experience, when you're alone in the forest near the temple's outer walls looking in, it really does look like all those cheesy paintings you can buy in Phnom Penh: jade green canopy, perfectly still reflection pools, smiling stone faces peaking out of temple windows and piles of monumental bricks with the faintest traces of carvings still visible. And of course the odd cow or two.

Wall, from Preah Khan interior, Angkor

Unfortunately, my first reaction upon seeing the immense silk-cotton trees and lush surroundings was to think how most of Cambodia used to look this way, and what a pity... But I fought back that knee-jerk negativity. Being an expat in Cambodia means confronting the legacy of the many horrors this country and its people have endured, especially if you work in development. Constantly bemoaning the state of this and that is not helpful or particularly healthy.

Instead, I tried to remind myself what a miracle it is that Angkor complex and its forest has survived a nearly 1000 years of tumultuous history, and how lucky I am to have the opportunity to see such a spectacularly beautiful place. In my eyes, the temples are monuments to both human achievement and the beauty of nature, and I hope they never cease to awe and inspire me.

Moon Festival

Cambodians love festivals and holidays, which are usually centered around food and visits from extended family (including ancestors). Cambodia has more national holidays than any other country (although many Cambodians work at least a half-day on Saturdays). In addition to Khmer religious festivals and various international holidays, many Cambodians claim Chinese ancestry and also celebrate Chinese holidays. For someone not attuned to the lunar schedule, its always a surprise to wake up your landlord and neighbors burning red and yellow paper printed with Chinese characters in homemade firepits on the side of the road, giving the morning commute a slightly ominous haziness and acrid smell.

The top photo is from my neighbor burning a paper lantern with auspicious phrases from the Chinese Moon Festival at the end of September. I asked my neighbor's kids (shown in the 2nd photo) to explain the holiday to me: "Well, we eat mooncake and our parents let us play late at night. And then you look up at the moon and see how it looks." There you have it! Not coincidentally, the following day kicks off Pchum Ben, a 15 day Khmer-Buddhist holiday honoring ancestors. 

The Pearl of Asia

This video has been playing almost non-stop on Cambodian television since Sihanouk died. Filmed in 1965, I can only guess that it was some sort of propaganda film. Nevertheless, it gives marvelous views of mid-century Cambodia and a quaint, pretty Phnom Penh.

One of Sihanouk's principal objectives during the Sangkum Reastr Niyum period was to modernize Cambodia's infrastructure. An artist at heart, he chose ambitious Cambodian architects to lead these projects. The resulting 'New Khmer Style,' which is on full view in the video above, combined European 'International' style with Khmer vernacular building techniques. 

One of my initial reasons for coming to Cambodia was to learn about this period and today's small preservation movement as a possible topic for a research project, which unfortunately never came to fruition. Many of these buildings, even the flagship projects such as the Olympic Stadium, are in danger of being destroyed and replaced by glass box malls or Chinese bathroom-tile villas. The current regime does not share Sihanouk's appreciation for the avant-guard, or even uniquely Cambodian styles.

For those in Cambodia, the full-length version of this video and others from the period are available to view at the Bophana Research Centre in Phnom Penh.

Le Roi est mort! Vive le Roi!

King Norodom Sihanouk's coffin entering the Royal Palace, Phnom Penh (via Facebook)

The King’s Father, former King and former Prime Minister Norodom Sihanouk has died (he also held a number of other titles…the most on record according to Guinness.) He presided over Cambodia in some form or another during almost every major event in Cambodia’s modern history, including French rule, World War II, independence, the Khmer Rouge, UNTAC, and Hun Sen’s rise. For many outside observers, his record is decidedly mixed, marred most severely by his endorsement of the Khmer Rouge following the rightist coup in 1970. I certainly do not have much authority to speak on that subject, but anyone interested should consult his obituaries, or better yet ‘When the War Was Over’ by Elizabeth Becker, which is far and away the best book I’ve read so far on Cambodian history and politics and delves deeply into Sihanouk's legacy, even if it is now a bit dated.

He died over Pchum Ben weekend, the Khmer-Buddhist holiday celebrating ancestors, which my Cambodian friends did not view as a coincidence and will only serve to cement the image of a divine nature for future generations. Many Western journalists had written off the Cambodia’s royal family as irrelevant in the post-coup Hun Sen era. Previously, I accepted this analysis, since I rarely heard Cambodians talk about the current King or Sihanouk. Now I see they probably had little to say to me on the subject, since I am not Cambodian and the Royal Family is not a topic for light conversation. He was viewed as the father of the country and very well loved. This was made clear to me today, when his body returned from the hospital in Beijing. The entire city shut down while hundreds of thousands of Cambodians lined the streets to view the ceremonial procession of his coffin to the Royal Palace. For hours under the mid-day sun, Cambodians of all stripes waited patiently in traditional funeral clothing (white shirt and black pants, with a black mourning ribbon affixed to the right breast pocket) holding portraits, incense, flowers and flags. It was an impressive and moving display of national unity. 

King Sihanouk and Jackie Kennedy, 1965

Initially, I had decided not to join them. This was a public mourning for his subjects, the Khmer people, and not a parade. Cambodians have allowed much of their culture to be turned into tourist attractions, but they take ceremonial and religious matters very seriously.  However, as I struggled to find a way back to the office after trying to run some lunch errands, I ran into a friend of mine, who insisted that I join. It was quite hot, but nobody except for some passing tourists left early, even after several hours. The funeral procession arrived with chanting monks, musicians, politicians and diplomats in tow, it was over in just a few minutes. We then turned and headed toward the Royal Palace to watch the procession enter the Palace, where the coffin will be on display for 3 months. As the sun was setting, the sea of white shirts and incense clouds turned shades of pink and orange as the Palace glowed in front of us. 

After it ended, I walked back to my motorbike with another friend who’d joined us mid-way through, Chet. He is typically very snarky and irreverent, making jokes about everything from my pronunciation in Khmer to his impoverished childhood in Svay Reing province. When I semi-jokingly asked him if he had cried, his answer drove home how momentous the occasion was for Cambodians. He pointed to his heart and said, “I don’t show it but I am crying on the inside. I usually don’t care about anything but today I’m very sad. I love the King, you know? He’s my King! Of course I love him.”

RIP

Squash Blossoms, Prey Vang province

Herbs, Prey Vang province

Multi-Purpose

Brooding hen in a rice huller, Prey Vang province

Spirit House

Green mangoes in front of a spirit house, Prey Vang province

Squash flower

Squash flower, Prey Vang province

New Friends

Kids in Prey Vang province

Surely there is no greater testament to the dominance of English as the global language these kids. When we pulled up to their house in the rural back-roads of Prey Vang province, they were studying English from a handful of meticulously written phrases on a chalkboard. The girl in front (in pink) was acting as teacher for the day, although my colleagues told me they have lessons for a few hours every day from a teacher who travels locally.

More Night Views

End of evening rush hour, around 6 pm, Phnom Penh

Late night conversations, around 10 PM, Phnom Penh

Night View

View from my front porch, around 9PM, Phnom Penh

While Phnom Penh starts buzzing with activity early in the morning, even the busiest intersections empty out by 9 PM. From the eerily deserted streets, it's easy to feel like you're stumbling in at 4 AM, while in reality its only 10:30. I find the city particularly pretty at night, especially just after a big rain.

The downside, of course, is that construction noise kicks off at 7 am, and cafés and restaurants close by 8 pm. Not a great place for a night-owl.

Office Meeting

Visiting an SRI rice paddy, Prey Vang province

Frog in Duck Weed, Prey Vang province

Sustainability vs. the Environment

A friend forwarded me this article from an Australian news site, and its been on my mind all day (I'm not alone, check out the intense debates on the comment board). The author lambasts the current 'environmental' movement for succumbing to 'cult of utility' and focusing entirely on carbon instead of broader preservation of the natural environment. It's a well reasoned arguement and one that I share some affinity for: why can't enjoying beauty and appreciating biology be an end in itself? Why does everything (the arts, education, public space) need to be 'productive' aka earn money for someone, in order to be considered useful. I also agree with the author when he criticizes the green movement for focusing on carbon and clean energy rather than reducing and reusing.

That being said, arguments like these are easy to make from a privileged, Western point of view. I think its fair to say that old school 'environmentalism' encouraged walling off nature (into parks or protected areas) while ignoring or blaming the people whose livelihood depends on using nature's 'utilities.' While I still dislike the aforementioned 'cult of utility', I also think its fair to say that the only way that nature can be meaningfully preserved is if it serves some kind of utility to someone, but is done so 'sustainably'.

Cambodia has one of the highest deforestation rates in the world, and 'economic concessions' continue to be awarded to agribusiness companies or for the creation of new dams and reservoirs. While the story is not over regarding Cambodia's natural environment, it will be framed by entirely different questions than it was 20 years ago. While its forests may never return, the country is still bathed in sunlight nearly all year long, which would be a much better source of energy for rural villages who are still without access than the country's current diesel-burning grid.

 

After doing some more internet digging, I found the source (or at least hosting website) of the pictures on the last post. Although I'd never encountered it before, Chanbokeo.com is a great source of old photos from Cambodia in the pre-Khmer Rouge and French protectorat periods, as well as for recipes, folktales and history (which I cannot yet vouch for). I love this picture of King Sisowath in his European 'city' suit.

Two girls playing on the beach, Kep City

I stumbled upon a batch of fascinating old photographs of Cambodia on Facebook ('Khmer Author Chanbo Keo'), some with no source beside lively arguments between commenters in Khmerglish.

And while there are certainly some crazy sights to behold on the Cambodian roadways, nothing today compares to these pictures below. My favorite detail is the two hammocks strung up on the 6th floor of an office building (Monivong Blvd?) in the 2nd photo.

Early 1980s?

Kampuchea wakens from a nightmare, Phnom Penh:  National Geographic, May 1982,

Battambang, early 1980s?

Fences

The photographer Lim Sokchanlina is part of a group of young Cambodian artists who are taking on contemporary social and cultural issues in their work. The above picture is from his series 'Wrapped Future.' I like that these photographs are on one level a rather austere exploration of the kaleidoscope of textures that make up street-level Phnom Penh, and on another level draw attention to the way that the city's space is increasingly being privatized. From his website: 

With both archival and artistic impulse, Lim repeatedly photographs these temporary partitions at especially contentious sites, seeking to provoke questions about real and representational borders, their physical and psychological ability to divide public and private, past and future, known and unknown.

Cleveland On My Mind

Tremont, Cleveland, Ohio

While there are many similarities between Washington DC, where I last lived in the US, and Phnom Penh (big money, big government, bad traffic, lots of police), there isn't much of Cleveland here. Although perhaps the New York Times sees it differently, as it reports on both my adopted home and my hometown with more frequency than their relative clouts might merit. Perhaps both are ideal examples of two very different, but interconnected, global narratives. A recent op-ed underscores the challenges Cleveland faces, as well as some of its zaniness. Perhaps the two cities share that quality as well.

I often tell people that I'm happy to be abroad right now, missing the barrage of political ads and the inevitable fights with friends and family. That being said, it is impossible to overstate how much easier it is to live abroad now, thanks to the internet. While I'm happy to avoid the JAWS-esque super-PAC ads, I am extremely grateful that I can still access the news, contact my family, and check my bank account with relative ease. I can only imagine the headache of trying to keep in contact via Cambodia's postal system.

Central Market's new life

Pages from the book, via Melon Rouge website

The Central Market or Phsar Thmei, is my favorite building in Phnom Penh, and not only because I worked on a book about its renovation last year. It's more barang (foreigner) accessible than Phsar O'Russei, but without the tourist trap feel of Phsar Toul Tom Poung. The 1930s design somehow still looks modern, even when compared to Phnom Penh's trendiest new glass-box skyscrapers. It's (pre-climate control) natural ventilation system means the building stays cool during the hottest periods of the day. It's also one of the best market's to grab lunch at, thanks to a clean and bright restaurant wing. And it should go without saying that the people watching is fantastic.

Anyone interested in its history should check out my handiwork in 'Central Market: Story of a Renovation,' available in French/English or Khmer at Monument Books in Phnom Penh, or by directly contacting Melon Rouge.

No End in Sight for Phnom Penh Construction

Cambodia's construction sector attracts 1.53 bln USD investment in 8 months

Unknown fruit, Rabbit Island, Kep Province

Rabbit Island, Kep Province

Sound Familiar?

Central Ho Chi Min City, Spring 2011

Some people compare Phnom Penh to what Bangkok was like 20 years ago. But if I was placing bets on the city's future, I would look toward Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. I have a hard time believing that Phnom Penh will ever boast a skyline crowded with office towers and five star hotels. Saigon's smattering of condo buildings and designer malls among the rows of shop-houses and French relics is a much more believable vision. When I visited Vietnam last year, both Vietnamese cities were buzzing with traffic jams, busloads of tourists, night markets and fancy cafés. I was particularly struck by the sunset view from the Hanoi's West Lake, complete with the blinking lights of dozens of skyscrapers under construction.

However, since returning to the region, I've come across several articles about Cambodia's neighbor to the east that range from circumspect to exasperated on the subject of the economy, particularly the effects of property speculation and cozy government-business relationships. I couldn't help but think of Phnom Penh, where green tarps and bamboo scaffolding are omnipresent. Large swaths of land just outside the city lie fallow, surrounded by thick concrete fences, waiting for the inexorable march of urban sprawl to reach them. Phnom Penh's Master Plan for 2020 estimates that the city will grow to over 3 million people by the end of the decade, expanding primarily to the north and west.

Phnom Penh art scene

"The Space Between Inside/Outside"

by Anida Yoeu Ali, a Cambodian-American artist, on display at Java Arts

For people interested in history and culture, the pace of development in Phnom Penh is often a cause of concern. Historic buildings are torn down and replaced by glass-box skyscrapers, young Cambodians are increasingly preoccupied with Korean music and fashion, etc. But as the city becomes more cosmopolitan, the local arts scene is growing. There are now several galleries and non-profit arts spaces in the city exhibiting high-quality work by local artists. Over are the days where the city's art 'scene' consisted of a half dozen shops selling the same overwrought oil-paintings of Angkor Wat.

Some of my favorites include:

Java Arts, a gallery space and café
Romeet Gallery, an exhibition space affiliated with Phare, a Battambang based arts organization

Prey Vang

Manure hut, for use in compost, Prey Vang province

I had the opportunity to travel 'into the field' for the first time last week, to Prey Vang province in Southeastern Cambodia. The names means 'long forest' in Khmer, but little forest remains, as in most parts of Cambodia. In fact, in certain areas, if you squint, the landscape looks like a well manicured golf course in Florida. What looks like acid green turf is, of course, rice paddies. CEDAC works with young farmers in the region, and I was lucky enough to visit their farms to view the new techniques they are implementing to raise chickens, grow vegetables, and increase their rice yields.

It was a very inspiring trip, to say the least. I was quite impressed by the farmers, their ambition and their commitment to farming as a profession. Previously, many had to supplement their incomes by working in factories or in construction, keeping them away from their families.

This was not my first trip into the Cambodian countryside, but it was the first time I was able to visit people's homes and learn about tropical agriculture from the farmers themselves. It's easy to forget how most Cambodians live when immersed in Phnom Penh's flashing lights and traffic. But despite the capital's growth, Cambodia is a still an overwhelmingly rural country.

Mapping Cambodia

Heritage buildings in Phnom Penh, from Urban Voice

Much has been made about the prospects of using data in government, development and business. The statistician is the next hot career. Buzzwords like 'indicators' and 'data visualization' are quickly joining the ranks of more established jargon. Since my last trip to Cambodia, the number of wifi cafés, iPhones and even LAN gaming centers has skyrocketed. So I was happy to stumble upon OpenDevelopment, mainland Southeast Asia's first public interest 'open data' site. I was particularly impressed by the maps section, where users can layer information about government land concessions, officially protected areas, and even the broadcast range of local radio stations. Cambodia and the development community would be wise to use these tools to improve public services and promote transparency in decision making.

Also worth checking out is UrbanWatch, a regularly updated community mapping site for Phnom Penh, documenting urban poor communities, heritage architecture, locations of recent news events and more.

Development vs. Justice?

This article in AlJazeera on the ongoing Boeung Kak land dispute is not the most thorough or enlightening piece written on the issue, which has been widely reported in international press and prompted the World Bank to cease new loans to the country. However, I found the sub-headline quite provocative:

Can progress and justice co-exist in Cambodia, a country where development leaves a trail of destruction?

That question is one I think everyone working in development in Cambodia must ask themselves, even if the answer remains unclear.

Sunset over Gulf of Thailand, Kep City

While I recognize the aforementioned 'limits of charity' when it comes to vulnerable children in Cambodia, there are several organizations doing good work in this area, with which every visitor to Cambodia should be familiar:

Mith Samlanh, or 'Friends', runs several business that train former street youth, including one of my favorite hide-outs in Cambodia: Le Café Mith Samlanh at the French Cultural Centre.

Child Safe Network is an international organization that oversees a variety of programs including anti-exploitation awareness campaigns and a reporting hotline. 

Durian for sale in Kep City

It's nearly impossible to describe the experience of eating durian, since there is really nothing else quite like it. The flesh has a custard-like flavor with a bit of sourness and a texture that reminds me of papier maché. It's 'aroma' gets most of the disdain, with comparisons to gym socks and rotten eggs. According to the guidebooks, Cambodians love the smell and are known to place skins underneath their beds. I'm skeptical...

Child Labor and the Limits of Charity

As anyone who has tried their best to resist the pleas of trinket and book sellers at Angkor Wat or on the Phnom Penh riverside can tell you, child labor is a widespread problem in Cambodia. I've been told that children, by appealing to visitors sense of empathy, can out-earn their parents by a figure of 2:1 or more. For every child working to lure tourist money, there are untold more working in less visible industries like construction (where flip flops and shorts are the de facto uniforms), to say nothing of the work in family rice paddies. The US Department of Labor has recently announced a ten million USD grant to combat child labor in the agriculture industry, building upon its previous work with children in the country's brick kilns, salt fields and shrimp processing factories.

Sonia Faleiro's recent op-ed in the NYTimes, a follow up to a previous piece on the subject, addresses the underlying complexities of the problem in India. The author received numerous offers after her last article to fund the education of the orphaned Devi siblings. However, their aunt refused any assistance, on the grounds that the family could not afford to forfeit the less than one dollar per day salary that their eldest sibling, a fourteen year old boy, made in the brick kilns. However, instead of denouncing the aunt as exploitative and cold-hearted, the author instead criticizes the Indian state for its failure to address the cyclical poverty that such a situation is born from. Piecemeal efforts by NGOs and philanthropists can only go so far when corruption and partisanship in the government undermine the policies enacted to combat poverty's root causes (lack of infrastructure, poor public education, chronic food shortages, etc.)

This is a message that should resonate in many places, but especially in Cambodia, home to hundreds of NGOs and charitable organizations, and where there is currently no compulsory schooling age.

There is never any shortage of photographs of Cambodia (or of foreign 'photographers'... myself included). However, with everyone eager to share their 300+ photos from their vacation, the good ones can be tough to find. This old post from the blog KhmerBird highlights some beautiful photographs of varying subjects. The photo featured above is by Frank Spee.

Even after nearly eight months total in Cambodia, I still am transfixed by troupes of monks with their shaved heads and their saffron robes. They are often eager to chat with foreigners and practice their English; many only join the monkhood for a short time before they head to university or back to work.

The Big Picture

It's difficult to find photographs that accurately depict Phnom Penh's skyline and streetscapes, because by the time anything makes it on the web, it's already outdated. However, I quite like this series by Nicolas Axelrod taken earlier this year from the still-incomplete Vattanac Bank tower.

The Cambodia forum on SkyscraperCity has a thread devoted to panoramic photographs, as well as a frequently updated list of major building projects in the city.

 

I love this video series on SRI farming produced by CEDAC. The System of Rice Intensification (SRI) is a rice-cultivation method that aims to increase the yields of small farmers without the addition of purchased inputs, such as chemical fertilizer. 

The videos themselves are quite entertaining and give insight into popular Cambodian culture as well. 

Speaking of Cars...

Fulbright researcher Shelby Elizabeth Doyle records her daily commute. 

If widespread English fluency was my most pleasant surprise upon arriving in Phnom Penh, traffic was certainly the least. I had read about Phnom Penh traffic before arriving, but nothing (at least in the US) can prepare you for the free-for-all that is Cambodian rush hour. Motorbikes hauling mattresses, flat bed trucks carrying a wobbling mountain of 50+ sacks of rice, tuk-tuks transporting a family of 15, shiny new Bentleys speeding down the wrong lane....you never know what you'll encounter.

Phnom Penh currently has no public transportation. If the city continues to develop as anticipated (and hoped), traffic will likely become one of the biggest issues facing the city.

Range Rovers getting some competition in Cambodia?

New 2 billion USD investment to create a national car in Cambodia. Could Phnom Penh's next status car be homegrown?

Another lake slated for development

Despite the ongoing controversy surrounding the filling of Boeung Kak, it appears as though there are plans to develop the areas around another large lake in Phnom Penh, Boeung Tumpun. The Phnom Penh Post first reported on the story, and now the mapping group Urban Voice has released a speculative map of the development plans.

There are also reports that the property development company working at Boeung Kak has closed its doors in Phnom Penh without starting construction. 

Documenting the water

The floods are coming. My first few weeks were surprisingly dry, but now the rain has arrived in earnest. Last Saturday (pictured above) was a 12 hour deluge. After last year's devastating floods in Thailand and Cambodia, resulting in numerous deaths and the cancellation of the annual Water Festival, everyone is holding their breath.

The blog City of Water has been tracking Tonle Sap levels and other water and flood related issues.

Stock up on ponchos everyone!

Abandoned villa from the 1960s, in Kep City

Kep (pronounced 'Kype') is a seaside resort town in southwestern Cambodia. Less than 2 hours from Phnom Penh, it was frequented by French colonial officers in the early 20th century. After Cambodia won its independence, it became a vacation spot for wealthy Cambodians, who built modernist concrete villas in the emerging 'New Khmer' style taking hold in Cambodia's urban centers. Abandoned during the civil war and Khmer Rouge periods, many still remain as reminders of a mostly overlooked time in Cambodian history. Luckily, Kep has so far escaped the Sihanoukville's fate and remains relatively quiet. KepExpo, a new multimedia project taking place in early 2013, will raise awareness of Kep's heritage architecture and use the city to prompt dialogues about Cambodian urban history and culture.